A Day in the Sky

All the talk of this eclipse was making us quite jealous!  We wanted to see a piece of this eclipse pie (20% is what was being served in Cali) and so we set off into the mountains to find a viewing point above the city haze!

X-rays and welding masks were among the gadgets used to view the eclipse.

I didn't take a pic of the eclipse for fear of my Samsung phone's camera self-destructing. However, we were able to see 20% coverage pretty clearly.

Our post eclipse meal was fantastic thin crust pizza at La Pinera in Dapa, our favorite little restaurant tucked in a grove of white pines.  Then, we headed to "Loma del viento" which literally translates to "wind hill." August is considered windy season here in Cali, so people come and fly their kites on Sundays.  And I mean EVERYONE! It feels Kite Runneresque with kites fighting for airspace and even cutting each other's lines in the air!

It's a beautiful spot with a breathtaking view of Cali.  We had perfect kite flying weather! 

This kite made of garbage bags is going to have a denim tail!  Caleños sure get creative with kite creation! 

New Year's Eve Colombia Style

Colombia has a tradition of burning effigies at midnight to free yourself from the bad of the previous year.  The week before New Year's Eve, you see people selling effigies on the side of the road all throughout Colombia.  Some are generic people while some are political figures, celebrities, etc.  On our way to the store on Saturday, we just happened to find a life-size Donald Trump effigy at a stoplight, and we HAD TO HAVE IT!  Our effigy consisted mostly of clothes stuffed with leaves (a Donald Trump scarecrow if you will) and a paper mache head with classic and ridiculous Donald Trump hair.  We were giddy as we sat him up in the back seat of our van--tiny hands and all. 

Now, we were planning on having a nice dinner out and then come home to burn Mr. Trump at midnight.  We got dressed up and headed to one of the main going out areas in Cali...however, much to our dismay and surprise, EVERYTHING was closed.  All of the restaurants, all of the bars, all of the stores...even Subway and Dominoes were closed!!  I knew that New Year's Eve was a family holiday in Colombia, but I expected most restaurants to be open.  Note to self: Host a house party if we are ever in Colombia again for New Year's Eve.  Therefore, we roamed the streets to find a cab home, but first, in true Colombian fashion, stopped by the pharmacy and got some roadie beers.  When we got home, Aaron whipped up a hodge-podge of green curry with whatever we had in our cupboard, and we ate and watched Netflix until the big event.

Before. 

After.

Luckily, nothing got in our way when it came to our Trump toast.  We drove our van 1/2 block to a side road, propped up Mr. Trump on a concrete light post, verbally unloaded all of 2016's frustrations, transgressions, and disappointments, toasted to 2017, and fired up the camp stove.  I have to say...it felt kinda good. There's something primal about fire and its destruction, and I think both Aaron and I felt a sense of relief while watching it (ehem...him) burn.  I think we will turn the effigy thing into a yearly tradition. 

It was a fitting end to a year of immense professional and personal growth for both of us.  Thank you 2016 for all that you taught us about perseverance, love, patience, and the power of community. 2017...we're ready for you. 

  

Futsal?

We know football and futbol and even foosball...but futsal?  I can't say I had ever heard of it either! But last night I found out because Cali, Medellin, and Bucaramanga are hosting the FIFA Futsal World Cup 2016.

Futsal is basically soccer except it is played in a venue more similar to a basketball court than a soccer field.  Each team has four players plus a keeper in play and they can sub players in and out at anytime.  They also use a smaller, heavier ball which keeps the ball on the ground for most of the game.  There are two-20 minute periods and time is stopped whenever the ball is out of play.

We went to the first elimination game of the tournament: Colombia vs. Paraguay.  The game was extremely fast-paced.  I was told that futsal tends to be higher scoring than regular soccer games but that certainly wasn't true last night.  Colombia spent the first 20 minute half on the defensive but managed to keep the score 0-0 at halftime.  The second half was just...plain...ridiculous.  Each team had an incredible amount of chances but couldn't capitalize on any of them!  The game went into overtime, was decided by penalty kicks, and Paraguay ended up winning by one goal.  It was a fun way to spend a Tuesday night!

Cali Hash House Harriers

Yesterday we hosted the first ever Cali hash!  A "hash" is a run/scavenger hunt/party.  Basically, the “hashers” follow a trail of chalk or flour (2-5 miles or 3-8 kilometers) set by the “hare” to a Hash Bash celebration with refreshments (mostly beer). However, the run gets interesting with false trails, beer stopping points, and checkpoints for hashers to catch up. It is not a race!  Instead, it's a chance for people to explore new parts of a city, make friends, and get their hearts pumping.  

And we're off!  Photo by Katie Smith

The International Hash House Harriers was founded in Malaysia in 1938 by a group of bored runners who originated the club as an alternative to lonesome (and boring) individual running. It is based in every major city worldwide, as well as many smaller towns.  Some of the objectives of the original Hash House Harriers from the 1938 group were:

• To promote physical fitness among our members

• To get rid of weekend hangovers

• To acquire a good thirst and to satisfy it in beer

• To persuade the older members that they are not as old as they feel

We first did hash runs when we lived in Busan, South Korea.  We only did a couple but really enjoyed them.  After living here in Cali for two years, we thought starting a hash club would be a great way for the expats of all the different schools in Cali to get together and socialize.  We started in front of our apartment.  Aaron served as the hare and did a fantastic job setting a trail.  The trail meandered through the south of Cali and included 3 stream crossings, plank bridges, some fantastic views of the mountains at sunset, and a whole lot of fun.  We ended with a cookout at a friend's house with plenty of food and beverages.  We are going to try and do this the last weekend of every month in different parts of the city.   People and dogs of all ages are invited!  If interested, check out our Facebook page: Cali Hash House Harriers

One of the 3 stream crossings along the way!

At a "Hash Hold"--that symbol means to get a drink and wait for others.

We're back!

The blur.  That's what I am going to call the 2015-2016 school year.  Between being a student and teaching students, my mind didn't have time to process the day to day of our life (hence the blog hiatus).  It was a year of growth in many ways to say the least.  But now I've finished my master's degree, Aaron will finish his in December, and we will be living and working in the same country for more than 2 years--something we have never done together! We are truly enjoying feeling settled here and going back to our day to day routine.

Part of that routine is biking to school most days.  Driving in Cali is ridiculous.  Biking in Cali is not much better. Yet biking here is one of our favorite ways to get around.  There's something about filtering through traffic and trying to navigate around cars, trucks, motorbikes, street performers, vendors, potholes, sewer grates, speed bumps, stray dogs, lizards, horse carts, and glass that stimulates an unbeatable adrenaline rush.  Yet soon, the higher we climb up to school, the mountains begin to peak above the clouds, the sounds of the city fade in the distance, and that adrenaline is tamed by the energy of the Farallones.  Each morning starts with this rollercoaster, and we wouldn't have it any other way.  This is home.

The Stewarts Come to Colombia!

At the Cali Zoo!  Photo by Dave Stewart

Aaron's mom and Dave came down over our spring break at the end of March.  It was their first time in South America which made it a really special, eye-opening trip!

We spent a few days in Cali touring our favorite parts as well as places we hadn't gone before. For example, we took our first trip to the Cali zoo which, for me, trumped any zoos I've ever been to!  Although some of the animals were pretty lazy, it was a beautiful place to see some of the Colombian wildlife up close and take in the gorgeous flora and fauna. 

 Our next adventure was off to Santa Rosa in the heart of Colombian's coffee country.  However, we weren't there for the coffee.  Oh no.  We had heard that there were some beautiful hot springs, but even more importantly, chorizo.  Santa Rosa is known to have the best chorizo in the world!  We were ready!

After taking a bus from Cali, hopping in another bus to Santa Rosa, and then a jeep, we made it to Matisses Hotel Campestre.  We were early and couldn't check in yet, so without skipping a beat, like a kid in a candy store, Aaron asked, "Where's the best chorizo?!"  Our lovely host recommended a tiny place, walkable distance from our hotel.  We followed the smell of grilled meat all the way to the little Christmas colored restaurant with an unbelievable view of the lush, green mountains!  The chorizo exceeded our expectations.  Whether it was the meat or the micheladas, we were in a food coma the rest of the day!  We woke to chickens the next morning and made our way to the Termales Balneario.  They were stunning.  We soaked in the hot pools and gazed at a giant waterfall with multiple streams of water dancing down from the jungle above.  You could also jump in the cool waterfall and then run to the steaming hot termales.  Sandy and I got massages while Aaron and Dave drank beers and soaked in the natural beauty.  We were there in the morning which was really peaceful as there was not many people (apparently the evening is the most crowded time).  I will definitely come here again.

Matisses Hotel Campestre--a beautiful, peaceful accommodation

 

Waiting for our first taste of Santa Rosa chorizo.  Photo by Dave Stewart

Hiking up to the Santa Rosa Termales Balneario. Photo by Dave Stewart

Bathing beauty in front of the waterfall.

Next up was Salento.  Now, Aaron and I have been to Salento more than anywhere else in Colombia, but we just can't get enough.  We always stay at La Serrana because of it's absolutely perfect rural setting and gorgeous views of the mountains.  But this time we did something we'd never done---horseback riding.  We did a 4 hour ride to a waterfall.  Now, it was the rainy season which definitely made for a slippery ride.  For those of you who don't know, I got bucked off a horse at church camp in middle school and broke my arm. Needless to say, I'm not a very confident horse rider.  But this ride sure got me confident QUICK.  Our horses were slipping and sliding in this narrow tunnel down the mountain...sometimes almost chest deep in mud!  Talk about the best four wheel drive possible.  I was astounded at how well the horses were able to maneuver their way down the steep, slippery passage.  After crossing streams, rivers, and mountain valleys, we made it to the waterfall.  It was certainly a ride to remember.

Sandy and Dave looking like pros in their new sombreros!  

Mom and son in front of the waterfall. Photo by Dave

No visit to Salento is complete without a trip to the Cocora Valley.  Now, keep in mind it was the rainy season.  Although we were hoping for blue sky, it just didn't happen. But, after years of camping and hiking, that didn't stop any of us, especially Sandy and Dave.  We hiked up to the top of the valley only to see fog--Aaron and I kept trying to describe what would be the view using our best poetic devices but nothing could replace it.  However, cold and wet, we drank hot chocolate with cheese as our feeling of accomplishment kept us warm.  As we returned down to the valley, we really started to appreciate the mysteriously magical way the mist made the wax palms creep out at you.  It added a depth to the experience that we had not felt on our previous sunny visit.  It also forced us to look more at the beauty in front of us like hummingbirds, orchids, and insects.

Perspective. Photo by Dave

One of the "look out points." Photo by Dave

Don Elias Coffee Tour Photo by Dave

We were SO lucky to have Sandy and Dave visit.  The crazy bus rides, laughs, micheladas, pastries, and chorizos shared will be remembered.  Word on the street is that they hope to make a return trip...we're so happy they fell in love with Colombia.  It's hard not to.

Winter Break Adventures: Part 1 -- Hiking Up Pico Pance

The end of the school year was full of grading, grading and more grading, planning trips with friends and family, and celebrating the holidays---hence the lack of updating this thing!  Here's part 1 of our winter break filled with so much joy I don't think I ever stopped smiling.

End of Semester 1!
The end of first semester was full of celebrations.  Colombians LOVE Christmas and it was evident from the strobe light like lights blinking from balconies all around the city, the never-ending salsa music outside our windows until the wee hours of the morning, and the generosity of everyone.  Aaron and I were given gifts from students and the school held a Christmas party with over 200 staff members which ended in salsa dancing and a mariachi band!

Pico Pance
After finals were over, Aaron and I were ecstatic to have our dearest friend Kaylyn come and visit. We had big plans to explore all parts of Colombia and began with a hike up to the highest peak you can see from Cali--Pico Pance.  The hike should be done in at least 2 days, but our crew wanted to try to make it in one day from a base camp about 1.5 hour hike from Pueblo Pance (a small town 30 minutes outside of Cali).  Cali is at about 1,000 meters (3, 340 feet) and Pico Pance, the peak, is 4,105 meters (13, 468 feet).  The first day, we took a bus up to Pueblo Pance and hiked 1.5 hours up to Amor y Paz (Love and Peace), a little camping spot up in Farrallones National Park.

Our way up to Amor y Paz included a fun river crossing!

Our base camp for the hike.

Looking towards Pueblo Pance from Amor y Paz.

The plan was to head to bed early, wake up at 4:00am and start the 6-8 hour hike to the top.  Sasha, an American woman who lives in Pance and does guiding, coordinated the trip for us and her friends, Alejandro and Douglas, were our guides up the mountain.  In Sasha's words, "I've done the hike once but won't be doing it again ANY time soon."  It was going to be difficult, I knew that, but I don't think I knew exactly what to expect. 

We woke up at 3:30am and scarfed down a breakfast of coffee, eggs, arepa and cheese.  At 4:00am, with only our headlamps to guide us, we started up hill only to stop 5 minutes later to circle up and stretch. Our guide, Alejandro, explained how important it was to warm-up. :) 

Our sunrise view of the summit.

Dan, Aaron, Juan David, Juan Pablo, Kaylyn and I began the hike.  It seemed the darkness was to our advantage because although the trail was straight up hill, I couldn't see beyond my light beam, so I lived in the dream that it would soon level out.  The hum of the insects was fantastically meditative while the parrots' shrieks seemed to bring me back to my screaming hamstrings.  This false optimism kept me going pretty well for the first 2 hours.  Then, once daylight crept through the canopy making me turn off my headlamp, it seemed everything changed.  Actually, I'm not sure if it was the daylight or the fact that we were climbing vertically up roots and rocks with no breaks in sight.  At this point, we had to make a decision.  Dan, Aaron and Juan David were moving fast while Kaylyn, JP and I were sticking together.  Therefore, we split into 2 groups.  The first would make a strong push for the summit where they had to get before 1p.m. while the rest of us would keep pushing at a more moderate pace.

The trail was developed, but there were many points where we wished we had a machete to cut down the overgrowth.  After a fairly suave (soft) first hour, it was basically straight up for most of the way.  Trekking poles were not too helpful as we were literally climbing up roots and rocks.  Honestly, this made the hike really fun and interesting!  It wasn't just a switchback trail.  However, it also made it incredibly exhausting and coming down wasn't as speedy as it can be on other trails.  In fact, it seemed like we went slower going down at times to make sure our footing was secure. 

After 8 hours of straight hiking, Kaylyn, J.P. and I were still 2 hours from the summit, so we had reached our own summit for the day.  The views certainly made the pain worth it.  We were above the clouds and could even see Nevada del Huila, a snow-capped volcano, on the other side of the valley.  The other group ended up making it, and we all reunited around 6:30pm at Amor y Paz for a MUCH needed dinner!

One of those beautiful pain numbing views on our way to the top. 

Perhaps the best part of the hike was our K-9 companions!

Sasha is a fantastic host and had a feast waiting for us: quinoa soup, chicken, rice, salad, and plantains.  We swapped stories over fresh lemonade (with a little rum for our aching bones) and slept like the many gigantic logs we had aggravatingly climbed over hours before. 

In the words of Aaron, "That was the most difficult single day hike I've ever done in my life." Despite the incredible elevation gain, and the steep/ruggedness of the trail, we both would like to do it again but camp half way up.  We didn't see one other person or group while hiking which makes this hike that much more enticing.   Oh, and seeing the sunrise from the summit would be unbelievable.

Summit Teams: USA and Colombia!