Thursday, August 11, 2011

안녕히계세요 (Goodbye)

The last box is packed!  Finally.  This past week has been full of goodbyes and not easy ones, that's for sure.  It's amazing the strong relationships you can make with people in just two years.  We were so lucky to have met some really life-changing people during our time here.  I'm convinced people walk into your life when you need them most.  Let's hope this continues on into our next adventure.

On Sunday we leave for 3 months of adventure.  We will be traveling to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand for a month, India for a month, and then Nepal for the last month.  In Nepal, we will be meeting up with some our great friends from home and abroad to complete a 20 day trek through the Himalayas. We plan to update this along our way.  

So, so long from South Korea.  And, we send love to all of our family and friends.  We'll be seeing you soon!

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Last Day

On my last official day of school I felt an amazing amount of love.  I want to share a bit of what I went through and show off my fantastic students.  First is a dance that my high-level third grade boys prepared for me.  It's to the song "I'll Be Back" by 2PM, a popular K-pop group in Korea.  They did a great job (notice the boy out in the hallway flashing the lights the entire time...he cracked me up).



3-1 English Class
"Chicago"--he claims he will be my neighbor someday...or sleep in my backyard.

Some of my 3-4 English class girls. They threw me a surprise party with cake, ice cream, and notes they laminated.  I cried...a lot.

3-4 girls enjoying ice cream in a bag.

Ms. Kang lighting candles for my cake. I might have had a better chance drowning them out with tears.
The next day, I took off to the mountains with all of the teachers/staff of my school for an overnight trip.  We went rafting, sang, ate a lot, and enjoyed time together.  Here are some highlights.

Our AMAZING lunch.  The "main dish" that you order is that small plate of meat in the center.  Everything else is side dishes and you can get as many refills on them as desired (hence why we love the food here). As I've always said, I would hate to be a dishwasher in Korea.

Ms. Park and Ms. Choi who are always looking out for me.

Norebang (karaoke) on the bus?  Of course! The bus had a TV and a mobile microphone. This is my principal singing away. I followed him with my rendition of "Dancing Queen"

My co-teacher Ms. Joo and I in front of a waterfall along our trek.

Saturday, July 16, 2011

The Last Lunches

I love Korean school lunch.  It's one of the things I will miss most about teaching here. Everything is fresh, homemade, and nutritious. Even the way they compost their food waste here thrills me.   Therefore, I thought I'd share my last lunches.


Monday: Seasoned, boiled pork with cucumbers and peppers (you wrap all this in lettuce leaves), rice, and fermented soybean/tofu soup

Tuesday: Tongsuyook (sweet and sour chicken), garlic stems in a savory sauce (SO DELICIOUS), wilted spinach with some sesame seeds, rice, kimchi, and a vegetable soup

Wednesday: Boiled fish with potatoes and radishes (eyes, bones and all), cucumbers, rice, and kimchi jiggae (kimchi soup with some sliced pork and rice dumplings)

Thursday: Sweet and sour salad, mook (acorn jelly), sesame leaves in a fermented soybean sauce, rice, and samgaetang (Korea's version of chicken soup consisting of boiled chicken in broth and some herbs and spices)

Clean-up

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Templestay at Golgulsa

Droplet after droplet of rain tickling the roof tiles, simple yet nutritious bowls of rice and vegetables, working strange muscles, closed eyes, open hearts, the meditative bark of a Moktak, breath, chanting, bowing, and equalizing.  

This past weekend we spent two days/one night at Golgulsa Temple about 2 hours from Busan.  This temple was tucked back in a gorgeous mountain valley, as most temples are, but is special in the fact that it is known for teaching/practicing a Buddhist martial art called Sunmudo (Sun=zen, mu=martial art, do=way to enlightenment).  Buddhist martial art, you ask?  Aren't Buddhists supposed to be the peaceful ones of the religions?  Yes, they are peaceful.  But Sunmudo began as a form of protection when the Japanese invaded Korea during the Silla, Goryeo and Joseon dynasties.  During that time, monks were responsible for protecting people spiritually and physically. Currently, there is no sparring during Sunmudo training.  Instead it is simply another form of meditation, connecting one's mind, body, and breath through movements.  I would compare it to yoga in a way, but with a bit more jumping and kicking.

A pictorial representation of Sunmudo painted on the main shrine.


When we arrived to the temple on Saturday afternoon, it had been raining since the middle of the night (and it didn't stop until Sunday afternoon).  As a result, most of the afternoon activities had been cancelled. We were encouraged to rest and simply absorb the sounds of the rain. So after a glorious nap, we had a simple dinner of soup, rice, and vegetables. We were forewarned that there should be no food waste, so we must eat everything we take.  The food at the temple is not about taste, but simply providing just enough energy for the day.  

After our meal, we had an evening chanting service.  Four monks stood in the front, facing away from us, and, with their wooden percussion instrument (the Moktak) in hand, led the chants in varying rhythms.  The chants were extremely meditative, and I found myself able to relax quite easily. We did a lot of standing and full body bowing during this service.  However, the service is not intended to worship or praise anything.  Buddhism is very individualistic.  No one monk will ever give you any straight answers when it comes to your own beliefs, philosophies, or path to enlightenment.  It's about looking inward and finding a connection within yourself. 
A monk demonstrating his Sunmudo skills.

After the service, we began our Sunmudo class.  It was 90 minutes of stretching, squatting, flowing, kicking, and reaching.  We used muscles I wasn't sure I even had. Then, lights were out by 10:00pm in preparation for our morning chanting service at 4:00am.

We zombily made the steep, 10 minute climb up to the main temple at 4:20am. This service occurs everyday as part of their daily routine.  The chanting and bowing lasted for about 30 minutes.  Following the service, there was a 50 minute meditation time.  This was certainly the longest I'd ever gone "attempting" to meditate.  I say "attempting" because although no monk will ever really tell you how to meditate as it's all personal, I deem visualizing my grocery list, calculating how many times my legs had gone numb in the past 15 hours, and dreaming about french toast as a loose "attempt".  Nonetheless, I did find it incredibly relaxing and had moments of wholeness throughout the experience. 

Trying to stay awake at 5:30am for Barugongyang.
Following the meditation, we performed a very important Buddhist ritual done only on Sunday mornings called Barugongyang.  It is a ceremonial meal which focuses on appreciating, meditating on, and being fully present with your food.  It was quite the process.  It involved using four different bowls (one for rice, one for vegetables, one for soup, and another for clean water), eating out of each bowl and not mixing your food, cleaning the bowls with hot water and a leftover piece of kimchi, and drinking the water with which you clean the bowls.  You leave no leftovers, no waste, and do all of this in complete silence.  It really was one of my favorite parts of the experience as this is something I need to focus on more in my life.

Finally, we ended our experience with a short nap, tea with a monk, and doing 108 bows.  Yes, 108 full body bows meaning standing, knees to the ground, hands to the floor and back up.  It took about 40 minutes to do.  I have to admit, with my knees I was a bit apprehensive, but it turned out to be one of the highlights of my time there.  Each bow has a specific purpose.  I included the explanation of each below.  I think each purpose is worth meditating on and I really enjoy the various meanings. During this experience, I finally felt as though I could really feel my mind, body, and breath as one.  It was quite humbling and a ritual that I may repeat often in my life.

Before bowing, I prepare the proper mindset:
1.     Bowing is one way to purify myself.
2.     Through bowing, I learn how to humble myself and how to have a healthy body and mind.
3.     I bow to realize that others’ lives are just as valuable as mine.
4.     I bow to get rid of my selfishness.
5.     I bow because it is the desire of my true self.
6.     I bow for all living things, and for peace in the universe.

108 Bows
1.     I bow to wonder where I came from and where I am going.
2.     I bow to appreciate my parents for giving birth to me.
3.     I bow to think about who I am.
4.     I bow to find my true self.
5.     I bow to always appreciate my body and spirit.
6.     I bow for the well-being of my body and spirit.
7.     I bow to think about my true desires.
8.     I bow to find myself and to learn how to control myself.
9.     I bow to appreciate the life I live today.
10.   I bow to give thanks for being alive.
11.   I bow to think about how much I love myself.
12.   I bow to be able to always love my family.
13.   I bow to feel happiness and peace of mind through love.
14.   I bow to look for happiness only through love.
15.   I bow to know that unchangeable love is flowing through the universe.
16.   I bow to the teacher who has shown me the right way.
17.   I bow to feel that love originates inside me.
18.   I bow to reflect that my teacher’s lessons are inside me.
19.   I bow to feel that all living things, and the universe, are inside me.
20.   I bow to remember that my ancestors and gods are inside me.
21.   I bow to ask for forgiveness from the people I have hurt, because it hurts the whole universe.
22.   I bow to take care of myself and not to do bad things.
23.   I bow to rid myself of arrogance.
24.   I bow to rid myself of false humility, even if I am in bad circumstances.
25.   I bow to call attention to the good in others, but not the bad.
26.   I bow to keep others’ secrets.
27.   I bow to rid myself of hatred of others.
28.   I bow to rid myself of anger against others.
29.   I bow to not repeat anything I have not heard.
30.   I bow to not repeat anything I have not seen.
31.   I bow to always be ready, but not to expect things to be easy.
32.   I bow to avoid expecting obedience from others.
33.   I bow to avoid expecting difficulty in my life.
34.   I bow to make the best of each moment in my life.
35.   I bow to live a righteous life.
36.   I bow to repay even the smallest debt of gratitude.
37.   I bow to not put my own needs over the needs of others.
38.   I bow to not be stingy to others.
39.   I bow to not harm others in order to get ahead.
40.   I bow to try not to obtain valuable things with little effort.
41.   I bow to have the power to control my desires.
42.   I bow to reflect that life is more valuable than anything else.
43.   I bow to know that suffering comes from an attached mind.
44.   I bow to avoid making foolish mistakes out of ignorance.
45.   I bow to try to attain deep wisdom.
46.   I bow to learn to be nice to people, even if I have negative feelings toward them.
47.   I bow to avoid clinging to the strong in order to hurt those who are weaker than me.
48.   I bow to be honest with myself, and also to avoid flattering others.
49.   I bow to be true and honest with myself above all others.
50.   I bow to know that happiness, unhappiness and desire are all within my mind.
51.   I bow to know that happiness does not come from others, it comes from me.
52.   I bow to realize the value of living a smooth, peaceful life.
53.   I bow to avoid looking back at the past, and to not worry about the future.
54.   I bow to own possessions, but not to be controlled by them.
55.   I bow to know that I can find peace by being patient.
56.   I bow to know that having a repentant mind is the best mind.
57.   I bow to find freedom through wisdom.
58.   I bow to control my mind, not to be controlled by it.
59.   I bow to be diligent in my efforts to improve myself.
60.   I bow to be thankful for the hard times I have had, because they have made me strong.
61.   I bow to keep my original pure mind, even when time passes.
62.   I bow to pray with a thankful mind for everything.
63.   I bow to be thankful that I can find myself in silence.
64.   I bow to reflect on the value of living a pure, honest life.
65.   I bow for the people who are working in bad conditions.
66.   I bow for the people who are starving, poor and living hard lives.
67.   I bow for the people who work to provide me with healthy food.
68.   I bow to have a generous mind, even if I don’t have enough for myself.
69.   I bow for the precious lives of my children, who I have brought into the world.
70.   I bow for my partner, who became one with me through love.
71.   I bow for all disabled people.
72.   I bow for friends who have been beside me, sharing my laughter and tears.
73.   I bow for moderation, even when I have enough to waste.
74.   I bow for a humble mind.
75.   I bow for humility, so that I can always put others first.
76.   I bow to realize that nature is being destroyed.
77.   I bow to realize that all lives are interconnected.
78.   I bow for all the lives destroyed by the greed of humanity.
79.   I bow for all the ecosystems that are recovering after being hurt by humanity.
80.   I bow to listen to the sounds of life that are all around me.
81.   I bow to realize that my life is the movement of my soul.
82.   I bow to realize that the object of love and longing is life.
83.   I bow to feel my soul being purified when I hear the sound of a clean, clear stream.
84.   I bow to give thanks for being able to hear and enjoy the beautiful songs of birds.
85.   I bow to be refreshed by the feeling of a cool breeze.
86.   I bow to be thankful as I breathe in fresh air.
87.   I bow to be thankful for the sight of beautiful wildflowers that are always present.
88.   I bow to give thanks for the mountains and landscapes that speak to me through wind and snow.
89.   I bow to the Earth, which feeds all living things.
90.   I bow to the sky, which gives life to all living things.
91.   I bow for my own peace.
92.   I bow to hope for peace in everything around me.
93.   I bow for the peace of my neighbor.
94.   I bow for peace within countries that have been separated for no reason.
95.   I bow for peace between countries arguing for political reasons.
96.   I bow for peace and harmony among all religions.
97.   I bow to hope for peace in all dead and living things.
98.   I bow to hope for peace between human beings and nature.
99.   I bow for a mind that is enlightened and peaceful.
100. I bow for harmony between the poor and the rich.
101.        I bow for harmony between the sick and the healthy.
102.        I bow for harmony between those who have learned and those who have not.
103.        I bow for those who have fallen into darkness.
104.        I bow to accept all of the things I have done.
105.        I bow to be thankful for all of the people who love me and take care of me.
106.        I bow to be thankful for all of the good and beautiful things in my life.
107.        I bow to be thankful for my life and to reflect on the lives that are yet to be.
108.        I bow for myself, realizing that my own precious life is like the universe.



I'm sure we'll be sore tomorrow, I'm sure we'll keep eating meat, ice cream, and  coffee, but I do feel as though this experience changed each of us a bit.  It revealed new aspects of ourselves, our world, and each other.  And this we will keep with us for a very long time. 


Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Poo Cake

While busily planning the storytelling part of my Summer English Camp, I stumbled upon this gem.  It is a real Korean folktale.  Let's just say, I will be adding it to my personal library before leaving Korea. Enjoy!



Thursday, June 30, 2011

Rain, rain, don't go away quite yet

Monsoon season has begun!  It rained the ENTIRE weekend.  And not just sprinkles off and on.  The other day the wind was so strong it was blowing our pictures off the walls.  But although I can't go outside and play, I thoroughly enjoy this weather.

Korea's "monsoon season" usually lasts about 3 weeks or so and in this time I find life slows down a bit.  Life here is usually very fast-paced.  There are ALWAYS people out and about. But during the past few days, the streets have been a little bit less crowded which hopefully means people are catching up on other things and with other people (please be doing anything but STUDYING!).  As for me, I've been enjoying cuddling up with a book and tea, having a potluck with friends while watching all 3 of the Indiana Jones movies, and catching up on work/things I need to do before we leave. Just as the rain is nourishing and rejuvenating for the plants, so is it for us. 

So if you find yourself stuck inside as a result of rain or are just looking for something to occupy your time (and your mind and your heart), I would recommend the following two videos to you.  The first is about an American soldier from the Korean War who defected into North Korea.  For the past 40+ years he's been living in North Korea.  His story is definitely worth hearing.

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=2405878n

The next video is about India's issue with inequality, specifically the desire to bear sons.  Women all over India are being beaten, abused, neglected and even burned for "giving" their husbands a daughter.  This video addresses why this is and the severity of the situation.  Ever since reading Nicholaus Kristof's book, "Half the Sky," both Aaron and I have become more aware and interested in the issues surrounding inequality of men and women in the world.  Coming from the U.S., this seems like an aged battle, but unfortunately for many countries, the battle is just beginning (or has yet to begin). 

http://mediastorm.com/publication/undesired

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Photography, goodbyes, and other things we've been up to...

Aaron's really getting into photography.  He especially enjoys taking several shots at different angles and putting them together using some fancy-shmancy computer program to create panoramas (as seen in the title photo above).

In the "Buddha Room" at Seokbulsa Temple.  
The title photo and the one to the left were taken on an all-day hike up the mountain by our house.  Like I've said before, one of our favorite things about hiking in Korea is stumbling upon peaceful Buddhist temples tucked in the mountains.  This was one such temple. Seokbulsa was actually one of the most unique temples we've ever been to because of the stone carvings and stone buildings.  They even had shrines and meditation areas tucked in caves high up on the mountainside.  It was a beautiful place to rejuvenate after a busy week.

Among other things, our dearest friends Kate and Chaz left for good last week.  Chaz was Aaron's brewing partner while Kate was my fellow English teacher companion who could geek out with me about anything to do with education or language arts. We know our dear friendship will continue across the ocean and soon enough, state lines (they're from Iowa), but in the meantime we feel like there is something special missing in Busan.

On one of their last nights here, we went to our FAVORITE Korean barbecue place along with our friends Kim and Steve.  Not only does this restaurant have the BEST smoked samgyeopsal (3 layered pork) and the BEST kimchi (aged for 2 years), but it also has the BEST adjuma (older, married woman) working there.  Each time we would ask for more kimchi, she'd hunch over and slap half a head of cabbage on the grill with a mischievously giddy grin [and probably thinking, how in the world are these waygooks (foreigners) eating so much kimchi?!].  When Jake came to Korea, he said he wanted to marry an adjuma--well Jake, here she is!

Perhaps the greatest adjuma that ever lived.
And this is how each of us feels after eating her fantastic food.
In other news, both Aaron and I are finishing up our after-school classes this week, have final exams next week, and then will have only 3 weeks until summer English camp begins.  The time is flying!  Aaron is INCREDIBLY excited because he is doing a science camp at his school.  We basically have freedom to teach whatever we want for our summer camps.  He will do experiments, use the science lab and do labs, go on field trips, go hiking, and really teach about what he loves.  I'm thrilled for him.  Teaching English is certainly not his cup of tea, although he really enjoys teaching.  I'm happy he's found a way to teach science and English that is both exciting and educational (and that thrills his teachers and parents which is VERY important in Korea).

I, on the other hand, am busily putting the Daechonli Middle School's English Newspaper together.  This is my big project and it's been fun, but quite time consuming.  I really enjoy working with the students and utilizing my newspaper skills from yesteryear.

Speaking of skills from yesteryear, while I was walking out of school today, some of my 2nd grade boy students were playing soccer in the sandy school yard.  I see them playing almost everyday and it takes all that I have not to join them as I almost always am wearing a skirt or shoes not conducive to soccer. But today, something came over me and although I had a dress and nylons on, I kicked off my shoes and played barefoot with my students for a while.  It felt AMAZING.  I'm not sure if it's the nostalgia associated with touching a soccer ball or what, but it felt so good to kick something again. I had a great time (and the boys got a "kick" out of a girl playing in a dress, nylons, and with no shoes). 

I will leave you with some words printed on one of my 1st grade student's pencil cases today with a picture of a teddy bear and a horse:
"Friendship is the marriage of the soul, and this marriage is liable to divorce."
Until next time... 

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Korea, I will miss you.

As our time in Korea draws to a close, I'm trying to appreciate the little things I do in day to day life here much more to deal with my building emotions. This morning I rode my bike to school, as I do most days, and smiled looking at the beautiful roses hugging the white picket fence around an apartment complex.  I love riding my bike to school. As I rode past Daecheonchon, the brightly flowing stream running down from the mountain leading to my school, the lush green trees and flowers calmed my spirits. I felt energized gazing at the fog lurking over Geumjongseong mountain set directly behind my school.  I will miss having this landscape to enjoy every morning.


I'll also miss my celebrity status.  One aspect of teaching in a school where you're the only green eyed, curly haired person speaking a strange language is that you're given a kind of celebrity status. Everyone wants to touch your hair, stare mysteriously into your colored eyes, tell you you're beautiful as they walk past you in the hallway, and figure out what you really do outside of school.  


But yesterday a few of my favorite students took my "celebrity" status up a few notches. Five of my third grade students formed a "Callie Teacher Fan Club".  The first official meeting was yesterday.  They told me a time and place to meet them and proceeded to have a "Q and A" as they called it.  "What's your favorite movie?" "Who's your favorite actor?" "Who's your favorite singer?"  Then, they even drew up a logo for club t-shirts. 


And then, at the end of the day, one of my adorable first grade students showed up with a cup of something that smelled like a stir fry of sorts.  She had a toothpick in hand, and amidst asking "Callie teacher will you----" she excitedly shoved the mysterious food in my mouth.  It was a Korean stir fry dish that she'd made in her home economics class.  It was actually pretty darn good, so when I told her I really enjoyed it, her entire face lit up and she said quite emphatically, "THANK YOU Callie Teacher! Ahha!" and literally went skipping into the hallway where I heard her boasting to her friends that Callie Teacher said her food was delicious.


Everyday after school five of my third grade boys come to my desk with their mops and brooms in hand and ask me about my day, what I'm doing, and if I'm happy. They call me "Callie Collie Colie Teacher." I hear them yell it out the window when I'm walking into school, meet them in the hallway, or when they're walking towards my desk. And every time, it makes my whole being smile.


But alas, I only have 3 months to bask in my celebrity status. ;)  When I go back to the US, my students won't care if I have green eyes, if my hair is curly or if I can speak English.  They will expect it.  But here, I'm an alien of sorts, and I think, in a strange somewhat selfish way, I'm going to miss being one.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

Happy Birthday Buddha!

Pajeon with seafood.
Today is a misty, rainy day.  On these kinds of days, Koreans eat pajeon (Korean style pancake). It is basically a mixture of flour, water, green onion and seafood. You can also order kimchijeon which has kimchi instead of onion/seafood (it's my favorite) or gamjajeon which is all potato.  They drink it with a traditional rice drink called makgoeli. We must just indulge in some tonight.


Teach this triple truth to all: A generous heart, kind speech, and a life of service and compassion are the things which renew humanity.  -Buddha 
Lanterns outside of a temple near our house.

 Yesterday was Buddha's birthday and we had the day off.  Over the past week, lanterns have appeared lining the streets, buildings, and walkways around our neighborhood like Christmas lights.  It's a wonderful time to visit a temple.  On his actual birthday, many temples give free vegetarian food to visitors and the temple is illuminated in color. And as most temples are set up in the mountains, the lanterns are even more beautiful when set against the lush greenery fringing the temple. Temples are going to be one of the things I miss most about Korea. The idea that a place of meditation and spiritual peace should be isolated in a beautiful forest or up on a mountain top just makes sense to me.  They're one of our favorite places to go on a weekend or when we just need a break from city life.  In celebration of Buddha's day, I made "Buddha burgers" (lentil burgers) and carrot cake (and despite Buddha's teachings against overindulgence, I thoroughly overindulged in the carrot cake).  Maybe this will be a new tradition to bring back to the states?


View of the beach from the top of the mountain.  
THE FOG comes
on little cat feet.
It sits looking
over harbor and city
on silent haunches
and then moves on.
-Carl Sandburg

On the weekend prior to Buddha's birthday we went camping on Gujora Beach about 1.5 hours away from Busan.  We played games around a campfire, ate way too much Western food, did some yoga on the beach, climbed, and enjoyed the ocean and mountain views. It was nice to get away.  


While there, Aaron, our friend Jake, and I went on a motorcycle ride to the other side of the island.  It was eerily creeping with fog and silence.  The only noise you could hear was the lapping of the waves against some docks and abandoned fishing boats.  But, we did find some beautiful rice paddies and an enormous pile of clams that had been cleaned and strung onto strings.  We'd never seen anything like it.  Clearly Korea must ship these somewhere, but we're not quite sure where or why.