Peace in Colombia

I've been wanting to write this post for a while now.  The peace process in Colombia has been in the international headlines for weeks yet even though I live in Colombia, I felt like I did not have enough information to really comment on the process itself mostly because I was getting my information from the headlines and articles in the media just like everyone else in the world. 

"Do not talk about the peace process with your students."  This was announced to all of the middle school teachers at school.  Though there was no explicit reason given, it is clear that the peace deal is controversial and a point of contention between students, teachers, parents, and administrators.  However, despite the warnings (I'm in high school and my principal didn't directly say "don't talk about it"), I decided to ask questions to some of my students and co-workers to find out more about the peace treaty and plebiscite. Here's the short version:  

Who voted YES: Those who voted yes fall into a few categories: low/middle class, live in rural areas that were directly affected by the FARC, or were displaced as a result of the war.  Every Colombian teacher I spoke with at my school was voting yes explaining that although parts of the treaty may not be perfect, peace is better than war.  Others explained that compromise is necessary and some even mentioned the importance of forgiveness when seeking peace.

Who voted NO: These are mostly urban, upper class citizens with power (the majority of my students' families). When I asked some of my students their thoughts, most of them said that they would vote NO if they could. They argued that they want peace, but the FARC deserve stronger punishments than would be given under the terms of the treaty.  They also mentioned that no FARC members should be allowed to be part of the government. Furthermore, they are extremely loyal to Alvaro Uribe, the former president who has been extremely vocal against the treaty.  I specifically remember last year while reading Orwell's 1984, my honors students had to create their own Two Minutes Hate video and a few of them chose Santos as "Goldstein" and Uribe as "Big Brother."  This "hate" for everything Santos does is not new. 

Why Colombia voted NO: 

• Less than 40% of the Colombian population voted.  
• Many people didn't vote because they assumed the YES vote would win.
• There was harsh weather on the northern Caribbean coast which prevented people from voting.
• Colombia's history of election fraud and corruption??

Green areas equal YES, orange areas equal NO. We live in Valle de Cauca province which voted YES.
http://www.telesurtv.net/

Amidst all the dissension, school on Friday was different.  I arrived early and as I turned into my classroom, I could hear one of the school secretaries squealing like a school girl behind me. "Did you hear about the peace prize?" she asked a co-worker.  I turned around to see them hugging and jumping up and down.  I swear their smiles reached from here to Medellin.  There was a distinct buzz of joy and national pride that penetrated even some of the strongest naysayers.  Although I don't know what the future will bring, I can only hope that Colombia will continue to become the safe, beautiful, and vibrant country I have grown to know and love.

Here are some articles that I found helpful when researching the peace process:

Colombia's Undecided: Can all be forgiven after so much pain and loss?

The End of Colombian Exceptionalism 

Who is the FARC?

Futsal?

We know football and futbol and even foosball...but futsal?  I can't say I had ever heard of it either! But last night I found out because Cali, Medellin, and Bucaramanga are hosting the FIFA Futsal World Cup 2016.

Futsal is basically soccer except it is played in a venue more similar to a basketball court than a soccer field.  Each team has four players plus a keeper in play and they can sub players in and out at anytime.  They also use a smaller, heavier ball which keeps the ball on the ground for most of the game.  There are two-20 minute periods and time is stopped whenever the ball is out of play.

We went to the first elimination game of the tournament: Colombia vs. Paraguay.  The game was extremely fast-paced.  I was told that futsal tends to be higher scoring than regular soccer games but that certainly wasn't true last night.  Colombia spent the first 20 minute half on the defensive but managed to keep the score 0-0 at halftime.  The second half was just...plain...ridiculous.  Each team had an incredible amount of chances but couldn't capitalize on any of them!  The game went into overtime, was decided by penalty kicks, and Paraguay ended up winning by one goal.  It was a fun way to spend a Tuesday night!

Cali Hash House Harriers

Yesterday we hosted the first ever Cali hash!  A "hash" is a run/scavenger hunt/party.  Basically, the “hashers” follow a trail of chalk or flour (2-5 miles or 3-8 kilometers) set by the “hare” to a Hash Bash celebration with refreshments (mostly beer). However, the run gets interesting with false trails, beer stopping points, and checkpoints for hashers to catch up. It is not a race!  Instead, it's a chance for people to explore new parts of a city, make friends, and get their hearts pumping.  

And we're off!  Photo by Katie Smith

The International Hash House Harriers was founded in Malaysia in 1938 by a group of bored runners who originated the club as an alternative to lonesome (and boring) individual running. It is based in every major city worldwide, as well as many smaller towns.  Some of the objectives of the original Hash House Harriers from the 1938 group were:

• To promote physical fitness among our members

• To get rid of weekend hangovers

• To acquire a good thirst and to satisfy it in beer

• To persuade the older members that they are not as old as they feel

We first did hash runs when we lived in Busan, South Korea.  We only did a couple but really enjoyed them.  After living here in Cali for two years, we thought starting a hash club would be a great way for the expats of all the different schools in Cali to get together and socialize.  We started in front of our apartment.  Aaron served as the hare and did a fantastic job setting a trail.  The trail meandered through the south of Cali and included 3 stream crossings, plank bridges, some fantastic views of the mountains at sunset, and a whole lot of fun.  We ended with a cookout at a friend's house with plenty of food and beverages.  We are going to try and do this the last weekend of every month in different parts of the city.   People and dogs of all ages are invited!  If interested, check out our Facebook page: Cali Hash House Harriers

One of the 3 stream crossings along the way!

At a "Hash Hold"--that symbol means to get a drink and wait for others.

We're back!

The blur.  That's what I am going to call the 2015-2016 school year.  Between being a student and teaching students, my mind didn't have time to process the day to day of our life (hence the blog hiatus).  It was a year of growth in many ways to say the least.  But now I've finished my master's degree, Aaron will finish his in December, and we will be living and working in the same country for more than 2 years--something we have never done together! We are truly enjoying feeling settled here and going back to our day to day routine.

Part of that routine is biking to school most days.  Driving in Cali is ridiculous.  Biking in Cali is not much better. Yet biking here is one of our favorite ways to get around.  There's something about filtering through traffic and trying to navigate around cars, trucks, motorbikes, street performers, vendors, potholes, sewer grates, speed bumps, stray dogs, lizards, horse carts, and glass that stimulates an unbeatable adrenaline rush.  Yet soon, the higher we climb up to school, the mountains begin to peak above the clouds, the sounds of the city fade in the distance, and that adrenaline is tamed by the energy of the Farallones.  Each morning starts with this rollercoaster, and we wouldn't have it any other way.  This is home.

The ultimate question...

Lately this question has been taunting me.  It yanks on my heart strings and points fingers at my thoughts.  The more I search for an answer, the more difficult it is to find one. Why do I live far away from those I love?  

Two weeks ago I spent four days surrounded by some of my favorite people in the whole world.  Not only are they fun to have around, but each of them completes a part of me. These people make me feel alive, loved, excited, and full.  I feel like my true self when I am with them.  As I watched my dearest friend walk down the aisle, I was a tearful mess thinking about leaving my friends and family with whom I feel so much love and to whom I have so much love to give in return.  

But as I drove down I-35 and gazed off into the endless cornfields, I couldn’t help but think about the fact that every SUV on the highway was driving in a perfectly straight line.  There were no obstacles or speed bumps in sight (except the narrowing to one lane due to the inevitable Minnesota summer road construction).  There were no buses swerving to the shoulder trying to roundup people waiting on the side of the road to get to their loved ones.  There were no motorbikes weaving in and out of traffic like a living tapestry.  No horse carts, no taxis, no bicycles.  There were no road stands—no scent of empanadas or Sancocho wafting through the air inviting you to slow down, sit on a red plastic chair on the side of the road, and take a break.  Everything seemed predictable, easy, and safe. 

It’s times like those when the answer to my question seems easy. Why do I live away from those I love?  Well…..“I live for adventure!” or “I want spontaneity and unpredictability in my life!” or even “The world is my home!”  I try to answer it with cliche phrases like those to try and console my aching heart.  It certainly works for a little bit, but eventually the question tugs at me again, and I’m still left with that deep longing for my family and friends.

I think this is a question I will wrestle with for as long as I live away from those I love. I could move back to Minnesota and the United States and live a full, happy, very happy life.  But there would still be an itch that I would need to scratch.  An itch for something beyond the familiar.  An itch for something that fills something even a best friend's hug can not fill. 

Okay, let’s be real.  Ultimately, my dream is that I have a jet and all of my favorite people in the world could come visit at any time, to any place, for free! But, until that dream comes true, or my traveling rash is cured, I suppose Skype/FaceTime and BIG hugs once or twice a year will have to suffice. 

Introducing...

Sometimes dreams do come true.  Ever since we moved out of the US for the first time, Aaron has been dreaming about this being.  Her white, slender body and dainty accessories.  Her ability to climb mountains with his strong assistance.  Her capacity to carry his children all over the world.

No, I'm not talking about this Vanna:

I'm talking about this one.  Vanna Blanca "Super Carry" Hefstad:

It's about as simple as a car gets: no automatic shifting, no power steering, no air conditioning, and no power locks. It even has a choke to start the engine which fits snugly under the driver's seat.  However, when Aaron's life-long friend Tim came to visit, they made it their mission to add some bling.  They went to the depths of Cali's automotive district, bought LED lights and a new stereo, and installed them to make Vanna a road tripping dream. 

Aaron and Tim using their soldering skills.

Our first official road trip was to Popayan about 2 hours from Cali.  The drive from Cali weaves through some brilliantly beautiful mountain landscapes with volcano Purace in the background.  We stayed in Hostel Caracol, a quiet, clean hostel in the middle of the city center.  Popayan is known for its white city center.  The white, 2 story building blend to make a maze that is easy to get lost in.  I wouldn't recommend going on a Sunday or Festivo as it is pretty dead.  Many of the restaurants and coffee shops were closed to our dismay, but we decided to look for entertainment outside of the city center.  We had signed up for a tour with Popayan Tours to climb the volcano Purace.  Unfortunately, the guide called and said the wind and visibility has been horrible lately and it wouldn't be worth the climb.  Apparently the best time to climb the volcano is January and February.  So, instead we decided to do their Biking/Hot Springs tour.  We were picked up at our hostel at 10:00am and driven to the hot springs about an hour outside of town.  The springs were in a beautiful setting, but because it was a festivo, were packed!  They definitely had nothing on the Santa Rosa thermal springs in the coffee region, but were great for a dip and some sauna time.  Then, we biked 30km back to town.  It was a pretty relaxed bike ride with a few uphills.  The views of the mountains were unbeatable!  Along the way, at kilometer 3 or 4, we stopped at a little restaurant for juice and tamales--the best tamales I've had in Colombia!  It was the perfect way to end the ride.

On our way back to Cali, we checked out the town of Silvia.  The drive itself is worth it as we couldn't help but stop and take in the views.  Also, every Tuesday they have a market where the indigenous people sell produce.  We munched on empanaditas and pandebono as we strolled through the aisles "oohhhing" and "ahhiing" at the abundance of potatoes, tomatoes and grains.

Tim captured this road trip and the rest of his time here with his GoPro.  Take a look:

Aaron's ultimate dream is to drive Vanna back to the U.S. when we leave Colombia.  In the meantime, we're looking forward to taking the Runestad parents on their own Colombian road trip very soon.

The Stewarts Come to Colombia!

At the Cali Zoo!  Photo by Dave Stewart

Aaron's mom and Dave came down over our spring break at the end of March.  It was their first time in South America which made it a really special, eye-opening trip!

We spent a few days in Cali touring our favorite parts as well as places we hadn't gone before. For example, we took our first trip to the Cali zoo which, for me, trumped any zoos I've ever been to!  Although some of the animals were pretty lazy, it was a beautiful place to see some of the Colombian wildlife up close and take in the gorgeous flora and fauna. 

 Our next adventure was off to Santa Rosa in the heart of Colombian's coffee country.  However, we weren't there for the coffee.  Oh no.  We had heard that there were some beautiful hot springs, but even more importantly, chorizo.  Santa Rosa is known to have the best chorizo in the world!  We were ready!

After taking a bus from Cali, hopping in another bus to Santa Rosa, and then a jeep, we made it to Matisses Hotel Campestre.  We were early and couldn't check in yet, so without skipping a beat, like a kid in a candy store, Aaron asked, "Where's the best chorizo?!"  Our lovely host recommended a tiny place, walkable distance from our hotel.  We followed the smell of grilled meat all the way to the little Christmas colored restaurant with an unbelievable view of the lush, green mountains!  The chorizo exceeded our expectations.  Whether it was the meat or the micheladas, we were in a food coma the rest of the day!  We woke to chickens the next morning and made our way to the Termales Balneario.  They were stunning.  We soaked in the hot pools and gazed at a giant waterfall with multiple streams of water dancing down from the jungle above.  You could also jump in the cool waterfall and then run to the steaming hot termales.  Sandy and I got massages while Aaron and Dave drank beers and soaked in the natural beauty.  We were there in the morning which was really peaceful as there was not many people (apparently the evening is the most crowded time).  I will definitely come here again.

Matisses Hotel Campestre--a beautiful, peaceful accommodation

 

Waiting for our first taste of Santa Rosa chorizo.  Photo by Dave Stewart

Hiking up to the Santa Rosa Termales Balneario. Photo by Dave Stewart

Bathing beauty in front of the waterfall.

Next up was Salento.  Now, Aaron and I have been to Salento more than anywhere else in Colombia, but we just can't get enough.  We always stay at La Serrana because of it's absolutely perfect rural setting and gorgeous views of the mountains.  But this time we did something we'd never done---horseback riding.  We did a 4 hour ride to a waterfall.  Now, it was the rainy season which definitely made for a slippery ride.  For those of you who don't know, I got bucked off a horse at church camp in middle school and broke my arm. Needless to say, I'm not a very confident horse rider.  But this ride sure got me confident QUICK.  Our horses were slipping and sliding in this narrow tunnel down the mountain...sometimes almost chest deep in mud!  Talk about the best four wheel drive possible.  I was astounded at how well the horses were able to maneuver their way down the steep, slippery passage.  After crossing streams, rivers, and mountain valleys, we made it to the waterfall.  It was certainly a ride to remember.

Sandy and Dave looking like pros in their new sombreros!  

Mom and son in front of the waterfall. Photo by Dave

No visit to Salento is complete without a trip to the Cocora Valley.  Now, keep in mind it was the rainy season.  Although we were hoping for blue sky, it just didn't happen. But, after years of camping and hiking, that didn't stop any of us, especially Sandy and Dave.  We hiked up to the top of the valley only to see fog--Aaron and I kept trying to describe what would be the view using our best poetic devices but nothing could replace it.  However, cold and wet, we drank hot chocolate with cheese as our feeling of accomplishment kept us warm.  As we returned down to the valley, we really started to appreciate the mysteriously magical way the mist made the wax palms creep out at you.  It added a depth to the experience that we had not felt on our previous sunny visit.  It also forced us to look more at the beauty in front of us like hummingbirds, orchids, and insects.

Perspective. Photo by Dave

One of the "look out points." Photo by Dave

Don Elias Coffee Tour Photo by Dave

We were SO lucky to have Sandy and Dave visit.  The crazy bus rides, laughs, micheladas, pastries, and chorizos shared will be remembered.  Word on the street is that they hope to make a return trip...we're so happy they fell in love with Colombia.  It's hard not to.