War?

When Aaron and I first came to Korea, we were told three things never to talk about with Koreans: the war/North Korea, politics and religion.  Well, needless to say, lately it seems that’s all we’ve been talking about with each other, other foreigners, and Koreans. So after talking with my concerned family and friends, I thought I should share some of the dialogue Aaron and I have been having with Korean colleagues, friends, and students about what’s going on here (or at least what we think is going on).

First of all, let me start with something that happened to Aaron about a few weeks ago.  As a high school teacher, most of Aaron’s oldest male students will be doing their required 2-year military service next March after they graduate.  Therefore, they’re quite concerned about the possibility of war.  However, sticking to what we were told at orientation, Aaron never brought up the topic in class.  Until one day he was doing his normal, “how are you?” routine at the beginning of class and one student raised his hand and said, “bad.”  Now, when any students stray from the programmed, “I’m fine, thank you, and you?” answer there’s clearly something important they want to say.

So, Aaron asked the student why he was feeling so bad.  The student responded with somewhat helpful hand gestures and said, “South Korea, North Korea, war!”  Now, we were never told if a Korean brings up the topic if it’s okay to talk about.  But, in this case, because his students never want to talk and were actually showing concern about something, Aaron decided to ask more questions.  He continued with a lead up question, “So, what do you think about the possibility of war?”  Now, as many know, his students are quite low so they all looked to the Korean teacher to translate.  But, Aaron’s male Korean teacher refused to translate.  Aaron tried to reword the question in a different way in hopes that the students would understand, but it was no use—the students didn’t understand and the Korean teacher just stood there.  Then, the Korean teacher told Aaron, “You don’t want to talk about this with students.  Start your lesson.” 

After the class, Aaron and his teacher talked about what happened.  Essentially his teacher (an older gentleman) said he never wanted to talk about North Korea with a foreigner ever again.  

Now, we’ve told this story to some of our closer friends here in Korea (old and young) and received a few explanations: 

• About half of the older generation, specifically teachers, believe Kim Jong-Il is the answer for reunification, therefore, he is not a bad man.   This is the reason why even students and teachers are not allowed to talk about politics or North Korea in schools.
• Another teacher explained that Aaron’s teacher simply doesn’t want to talk about it because the country is quite divided on the subject.  Apparently a large number of young Koreans believe that the Cheonan sinking was a conspiracy.  They believe it was posed by the conservative party in hopes of handling the situation in positive way and, therefore, receiving votes in the upcoming election. But, the older generation truly believes it was North Korea and so there is rising amount of conflict concerning the subject. 
• Still, another teacher told me that in elementary school she was taught North Koreans were devils and that they were inferior to South Koreans. She knows better than thinking they are “devils” now, but she said that most people just hate North Korea and its people.

So, this was certainly a wake up call to Aaron (and me).  In American schools it would be unheard of NOT to use a situation like the Korean conflict as a learning tool and mode of discussion while in South Korea the discussion is banned from schools.  But one thing we’ve come to know is that there is NO room for conflict in Korean culture.  I suppose the lack of opportunities for discussion, free thinking, and tackling difficult/conflicting issues is what is a bit frustrating about education in South Korea from an American’s perspective.

Although it is difficult to get any type of clarity in regards to this situation, I do have to say that when it comes down to it most of the teachers, students, and friends we talk to are really not concerned about the possibility of war.  Now, frankly, I’m not sure if this is a result of the eroding connection each generation seems to have to the Korean War or their acknowledgment but just sheer annoyance with North Korea’s tactics (it seems they find them more annoying than threatening). 

Anywho, I will assure you that Aaron and I are registered with our embassy and if anything were to occur, we are in the safest place in South Korea.  Busan is about as far from Seoul as you can get and we would be on a boat to Japan as soon as possible.   But here’s to hoping we can stay on this beautiful, mountainous land for another year.