War?

When Aaron and I first came to Korea, we were told three things never to talk about with Koreans: the war/North Korea, politics and religion.  Well, needless to say, lately it seems that’s all we’ve been talking about with each other, other foreigners, and Koreans. So after talking with my concerned family and friends, I thought I should share some of the dialogue Aaron and I have been having with Korean colleagues, friends, and students about what’s going on here (or at least what we think is going on).

First of all, let me start with something that happened to Aaron about a few weeks ago.  As a high school teacher, most of Aaron’s oldest male students will be doing their required 2-year military service next March after they graduate.  Therefore, they’re quite concerned about the possibility of war.  However, sticking to what we were told at orientation, Aaron never brought up the topic in class.  Until one day he was doing his normal, “how are you?” routine at the beginning of class and one student raised his hand and said, “bad.”  Now, when any students stray from the programmed, “I’m fine, thank you, and you?” answer there’s clearly something important they want to say.

So, Aaron asked the student why he was feeling so bad.  The student responded with somewhat helpful hand gestures and said, “South Korea, North Korea, war!”  Now, we were never told if a Korean brings up the topic if it’s okay to talk about.  But, in this case, because his students never want to talk and were actually showing concern about something, Aaron decided to ask more questions.  He continued with a lead up question, “So, what do you think about the possibility of war?”  Now, as many know, his students are quite low so they all looked to the Korean teacher to translate.  But, Aaron’s male Korean teacher refused to translate.  Aaron tried to reword the question in a different way in hopes that the students would understand, but it was no use—the students didn’t understand and the Korean teacher just stood there.  Then, the Korean teacher told Aaron, “You don’t want to talk about this with students.  Start your lesson.” 

After the class, Aaron and his teacher talked about what happened.  Essentially his teacher (an older gentleman) said he never wanted to talk about North Korea with a foreigner ever again.  

Now, we’ve told this story to some of our closer friends here in Korea (old and young) and received a few explanations: 

• About half of the older generation, specifically teachers, believe Kim Jong-Il is the answer for reunification, therefore, he is not a bad man.   This is the reason why even students and teachers are not allowed to talk about politics or North Korea in schools.
• Another teacher explained that Aaron’s teacher simply doesn’t want to talk about it because the country is quite divided on the subject.  Apparently a large number of young Koreans believe that the Cheonan sinking was a conspiracy.  They believe it was posed by the conservative party in hopes of handling the situation in positive way and, therefore, receiving votes in the upcoming election. But, the older generation truly believes it was North Korea and so there is rising amount of conflict concerning the subject. 
• Still, another teacher told me that in elementary school she was taught North Koreans were devils and that they were inferior to South Koreans. She knows better than thinking they are “devils” now, but she said that most people just hate North Korea and its people.

So, this was certainly a wake up call to Aaron (and me).  In American schools it would be unheard of NOT to use a situation like the Korean conflict as a learning tool and mode of discussion while in South Korea the discussion is banned from schools.  But one thing we’ve come to know is that there is NO room for conflict in Korean culture.  I suppose the lack of opportunities for discussion, free thinking, and tackling difficult/conflicting issues is what is a bit frustrating about education in South Korea from an American’s perspective.

Although it is difficult to get any type of clarity in regards to this situation, I do have to say that when it comes down to it most of the teachers, students, and friends we talk to are really not concerned about the possibility of war.  Now, frankly, I’m not sure if this is a result of the eroding connection each generation seems to have to the Korean War or their acknowledgment but just sheer annoyance with North Korea’s tactics (it seems they find them more annoying than threatening). 

Anywho, I will assure you that Aaron and I are registered with our embassy and if anything were to occur, we are in the safest place in South Korea.  Busan is about as far from Seoul as you can get and we would be on a boat to Japan as soon as possible.   But here’s to hoping we can stay on this beautiful, mountainous land for another year.

Election Fever

Election fever is wild in Busan.  Tomorrow citizens will vote for regional leaders (mayors, governors, etc).  However, unlike in the United States, campaigning only began about 3 weeks ago and the election is tomorrow!  Although most of the campaigning is centered around dancing 아줌마 (older Korean women) with matching straw hats, trucks strewn with banners of the candidates' awkward senior picture poses, and singing supporters on every corner, their shortened campaigns do make sense.  Now, I've been reading that some of the campaigning has been lessened because of the sinking of the Cheonan, but still, it is not as ludicrous as the campaigning in America (even if there are dancing women in straw hats). 

I suppose this got me thinking...imagine if the elections in the US were like this: campaigns only a few weeks long and more money spent on things that really matter than negative TV ads, years worth of buttons and countless yard signs. Now don't get me wrong, I think our debates and town meetings are important, but when did the length and spending get so out of hand?  I suppose campaigning years in advance seems a little more necessary when you think about lesser known candidates wanting to rise from the unknown (ie Paul Wellstone and even Barack Obama), but still, as I said earlier, the amount of money spent is selfish and wasteful. Like many things I'm realizing about the US, we've taken it wayyy too far.

On another note, many of my teachers explained that the younger Korean generation is going to step up and vote in this election for the first time.  Apparently this has not happened in the past but with the tensions between North and South Korea high, they are deciding it is time for them to lend their voice to the situation--my teacher included. 

All of that being said, here is a video of some tough campaigning Aaron and I saw through a bus window the other day. :)

Aaron's Banjo Debut

Presenting....Aaron's banjo debut with "Fly Around My Pretty Little Miss."  Enjoy!

(a bit embarrassing as he made me sing, but he's getting great on the banjo!!)

Birthdays, Baseballs, and Bridges

Aaron and I at the Lotte Giants game on my birthday.

The weather's getting warmer, the days are getting longer, and I'm getting older.  I have to say that turning 25 kind of caught me off guard seeing as though if I were to properly round up my age now it would be to 30!  But, after an amazing weekend of physical and "virtual" celebrations with people I've come to know and love across the globe (thank goodness for skype), it was a fantastic day!

I just wanted to share a few pictures from the weekend.  On my actual birthday, Aaron organized all of our closest friends to go to a Lotte Giants baseball game.  The Lotte Giants are our local professional team in Busan.  We discovered that Koreans LOVE baseball.  From the constant cheering, to getting the entire stadium to do the wave twice, and to the fact that you can bring in in all of your own food and beverages, Aaron claims it was the most fun he's ever had at a baseball game in his life.  Needless to say, it was a great way to spend a birthday.  

The most adorable Korean boy who had on an Illinois sweatshirt!

Our friends Chaz and Kate came prepared with newspapers to make pom pons. 

And then came the bags.  In the 8th inning, bags are passed out for the fans to pick up their garbage.  Yes, the FANS actually pick up their OWN garbage!  But, of course, you must first wear your bag on your head.   

Eric sported the bag beret.

Then, Aaron and I walked across the Gwangan Bridge the next day.  It is the largest bridge over the ocean in Korea.  One day out of the year they block it off and allow thousands of people to walk the 8 kilometers across.  It was a gorgeous sunny, clear day which allowed us to not only see Busan in a way we never have before but also see Japan!

Just beginning our journey...note the bridge in the background.

Looking away from the coast and towards Igidae Park from the bridge.

The view of Gwangan Beach, Busan from the bridge. 

In Remembrance...

On Sunday morning I was checking my e-mail, facebook messages, and newspapers as normal when an article in the Winona Daily News caught my attention.   There was a single-car accident in which 3 young girls were killed.  To my horror, all of these girls attended Lewiston-Altura High School where I taught last year.  One of the girls killed was one of my prior students.  The sole survivor, an eighth grade girl, is still in critical condition.  She is also the penpal of one of my Korean students. 

After hearing the news, another one of my former students began talking to me through facebook.  She told me how scared she was to drive to school and how she can’t understand why it wasn’t her that died as she drives to school everyday just like those girls.  We had a fairly lengthy conversation, and while tears dripped from my lashes to the computer keys, I was reminded of what a precious, beautiful gift life is.  It seems it’s not until moments like this that we’re reminded of that truth.

Just the day before, Aaron and I had what I would consider a perfect day with amazing friends.  We hiked mountains in the sunshine, baked homemade banana bread, relaxed and watched some Planet Earth, and discussed the ins/outs of life over some Korean BBQ and beer.  My thoughts were far from the fear of death or the consideration that this hike or piece of banana bread could be my last.  

But that next morning, reading about the story of the girls’ deaths, reminded me of how frank life is.  The good, the bad, the sad, the joyful, the boring, the embarrassing, the surprising—these feelings are all real and an inevitable part of what this life has to offer.  We’ve always been told, you can’t appreciate the good times without experiencing the bad.  Like Yin and Yang or winter and spring, it’s the balance of these emotions/experiences that allows us to live full lives.

And so I asked my student, if we live our lives in fear of death, then how can we truly live?  The important thing is to cry, scream, grieve, laugh, smile and embrace each emotion attached to each experience in the present moment, but then, let the emotion go.  Our life should be lived for the present moment. Events like what happened to these girls can happen, but we can’t let them hinder our daily lives.  

In the case of these girls, today I cry for them, especially Shauna. I remember her smile, her incredible dislike for speech class (well, mostly just talking in front of others;), her sense of humor, and her daily visits to my classroom just to chat.  I wish her family and close friends peace, and I hope they can feel her love in this precious present moment.   

Quirky Korea

On one of my first grade (7th grade in the US) students' pencil cases:

Experience

Experience is a comb which nature gives to men when they are bald.

Home is where the kimchi ferments.

For those who don't know, Aaron and I have officially decided to call the land of kimchi home for another year. Our contracts are up this August and we will extend them another year. During our time here we've made some incredible friendships, immersed ourselves in the culture, acclimated our digestive systems to rice and squid, and had a fantastic time exploring our new home. However, we feel like there are so many more mountains to climb, kimchi to eat, lessons to teach (and learn), and ways to grow that another year is necessary to do just that.

BUT we WILL be back in the good 'ole USA for a little over 3 weeks in August in order to spend some quality time with family, friends, attend a wedding, and, of course, eat Chipotle. :) So, if any of you will be around in August, we would love to see you!!