Chilled to the bone

It's that time of year again when it's frigid outside AND in.  It's 27 degrees (F) today, not freezing cold by Midwest standards, but cold enough to shut the windows in our houses, work places, and cars. But, as I sit in the teachers' room or wander into the hallway, bathroom, and classrooms, I find that the windows are open everywhere.  This is one part of Korean culture I will never never EVER understand.  And yes, I'm going to take this chance to complain because I can't exactly complain to anyone here at school.


On one hand, I know they are conserving energy by not heating the school hallways, bathrooms (yes, that cold air gives you a little thrill when you squat), and cafeteria.  But, when I finally get myself into a supposedly warmer room, I find the windows wide open.  I've been told it's for ventilation purposes, but I would rather be warm than taking breaths of cold, "fresh" air. I'm all for conserving energy, lowering the thermostat, wearing more clothing, but isn't it counterintuitive when you open the windows and have the heat on?  I could wear the same outfit to school everyday because no one sees my clothes as I'm bundled up in a scarf and coat everyday.  I'm actually astounded as to how many expensive coats my teachers sport everyday.  They are clearly used to this idea of being cold all of the time and have turned it into a new way to make a fashion statement.  


But although people seem used to this always being cold, they don't hold back from complaining.  I can tell the students are freezing in their classrooms and the teachers are clearly just as cold. I can't imagine a somewhat warm room with continual freezing gusts of wind rushing into the classroom is an environment conducive to learning.


However, I will stop my rant to rave about the floor heating we have in our apartment.  It's truly one of my favorite parts of Korea.  After school, I thaw out my arms and legs and lay on the warm floor, with the doors and windows closed of course.  It's one of my favorite moments of the day.  

Konglish

Here's some more Konglish for your reading pleasure.  

Actually it's a delicious dish.

Not sure if I'd get my hair cut there.

And this place sells women's clothing.

Lately

Student showcasing their acrobatic martial arts amazingness
at my school's talent show.

Happy...December?  How did that happen so fast?  November proved to be a busy but fantastic month here in Korea.  Aside from the unrest occurring near the border, I might just say it was one of the best months we've had here.  Here's some of what we were up to:


School Festivals
Both my school and Aaron's school had festivals this fall. My school's consisted of a talent show and Aaron's school had a day of games/activities and displayed student's artwork in the hallways.  Also, my school held the annual sports day again full with costumes, foot races, and team games.  It was a blast, and I'm convinced to bring this idea back to the US.

Little Minnies on sports day!

Yes, the boy on the left is poop.

These boys had to all jump rope at the same time.  
The team that could jump the most times without 
messing up was the winner. 

And, here is a video of one of my students playing the recorder at our talent show.  I didn't even know it was possible to play like this! He was amazing!!  Check it out here!


Brewing
Aaron's brewed three different beers now in Korea. And, I have to say, they are absolutely delicious.  We are two people who appreciate a good beer (quality over quantity) and, I know I've said it before, Korea is not known for its beer.  Yes, you could call us beer snobs, but really, as I watch Aaron carefully mix the wort and yeast and measure the sugar levels etc., I realize it's more of a science project for him.  I figure he's getting his science fix, and I (and our friends) get to benefit from the Nut Brown Ales, India Pale Ales, and the Stouts he creates! 

Novel Writing
Yes, I managed to write 50,000 words in one month.  I think by the end Aaron was a bit tired of me typing in a cafe rather than out adventuring with him, but it turned out to be worth it.  The title of my "novel" is Through the Coffeehouse Window.  I have to admit, it's a bit of a personal pilgrimage of sorts--a story I've been meaning to write and bring to a close for many years now and this offered me the opportunity to do it.  So, it was somewhat realistic fiction yet with some non-fiction thrown in.  :)  After this experience, I rediscovered how much I truly enjoy writing but at a more leisurely pace.  Although this experience really helped me suppress my inner editor, I grew a bit frustrated when I HAD to just write what came to mind in that instant because otherwise I wouldn't make my word count for the day. I look forward to actually writing a longer piece of fiction at a more leisurely pace and without being so self discerning.  


Photography
As you know, we bought a new camera this year.  Aaron's fallen in love and is taking pictures like crazy!  I find him, quite often, reading the camera manual to learn more and more.  He's joined this photo blog with a friend from here and is submitting a photo each week.  Check it out! http://www.shutterswithoutborders.com I asked him to share some of his favorite photos he's taken lately.  Here's what he gave me:

On the streets of Busan.

Our good friend Rachel from Eau Claire, Wisconsin! 

Our friend Luke doing a bolder problem during a Busan climbing event.  .

A beautiful sunset right outside of our apartment window.

Motorcycle
And, finally, yes, we bought a motorcycle.  After months and months of pleading and begging me to give in, I finally did.  Aaron's been wanting one for some time now.  And, after Aaron took me for a ride up and over the mountain near our house on this guy, I was sold. It's a very very practical way to get around Korea and many people have them here.  It's an older bike, but we got a good deal on it.  I never thought I'd be a motorcycle owner, but I really really am enjoying it!  And yes mom, we ALWAYS wear helmets.  

Posing with our new Daelim 125cc monster motorcycle.

So, as fall transitions into winter, we're looking forward to heated floors, skype dates with our families and friends, the holiday season, and a visit from Jake in less than a month!  Happy holidays everyone!

Just keep writing, just keep writing...

Why I haven't been writing on here lately:


As some of you may or may not know, I have a life list of things I want to do before I die.  Since being in Korea, I've managed to cross 3 things off the list: live and work in a foreign country, go to Asia, and write a novel.  Well, hopefully in 15 days I will be able to cross off that last one.  


The month of November is Nanowrimo month.  It's a different approach to novel writing begun by a group of ordinary people with a will to write.  You have exactly 30 days in the month of November to write a 50,000 word novel (about 1,667 words a day).  It is more about quantity rather than quality, but I have to admit, it makes me write.  For someone like me who has an evil editor on her shoulder all the time, Nanowrimo has taught how to simply write and not think--a skill I've been attempting to master all of my life.  It has been quite the cathartic experience, and I'm falling in love with writing all over again.    


And so, after half a month, I have 25,120 words. 24,880 to go!  I'll see you all again in December.

Oh fall, how I love thee

Our campsite at Gayasan National Park.

Fall is in full swing in Korea and it sure is breathtaking! Although we have no apple orchards with warm apple cider donuts and goats to pet, we're making do. It is still apple season here and I've already made a pie,  applesauce, and apple crisp. I also brought a can of pumpkin butter back from the US. When I get homesick, I just lather up a piece of toast with some of that sweet, buttery goodness and I'm back in the midwest.  


Among my other favorite things about fall are the colors. I remember taking Sunday family drives along Hwy. 2 to see the bright orange, red, and yellows of the Rock River Valley. So in order to get our fix, Aaron and I decided to head to one of the national parks about 2 hours from Busan. Gayasan National Park is known for its colors as well as its temple tucked up in the mountains. It was a BEAUTIFUL weekend and although it was cut short with a rainy Saturday night/Sunday, this park was worth the trek.   

Walking into Chi-in village from our campsite.

At beautiful Haeinsa, the temple within the national park.

Almost to the top!

We made it!

The waterfall right next to our campsite.  We'll be back when it's warm for swimming!

Paul and Mary do Korea!

On a cruise off the coast of Busan.

What a fantastic past few weeks we've had!  The highlight---a two week visit from my parents!  The two weeks were packed with visiting my school, a trip to Seoul, viewing North Korea and visiting the DMZ, eating all kinds of raw (and sometimes still squiggling) seafood, and hiking in the beautiful mountains. 

After 2 delayed planes, a missed flight, and a night in Tokyo, Japan, my parents made it to Korea!  My school was kind enough to let me skip out on a few classes so I could meet them at the airport. Upon arrival, I rushed them to the apartment to drop off their stuff and then, after only 2 hours in Korea, they ended up in the principal's office.  But rest assured it was on a positive note.  He greeted them with tea, and true Korean generosity, offering them anything and everything they said was "beautiful" or "interesting" including a wooden tea table and teapot.  My dad kindly declined at the time, but little did he know...

The next day we went to the ocean and Jalgalchi Market, an "aquarium" in which you can choose your dinner from a tank and have it ready on a table within 10 minutes!  My dad bravely ate the still squiggling octopus.

No fear!!

Aaron and I were lucky enough to have 4 days off of school for Chuseok, Korea's version of Thanksgiving.  Many things were closed for those few days so we headed to our favorite temple in the mountains.  We also ate at a very traditional Korean restaurant on Chuseok and both my parents tried and spat out silkworm larvae as well as dozens of fermented vegetables (which they enjoyed a bit more than the silkworms).  

The beautiful rice paddy fields behind Tondo Temple.

At Tongdo Temple.

Mom being interviewed by some English students at Insadong Market in Seoul.

Our next adventure was to Seoul and to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone).  Going to the DMZ was something Aaron and I have wanted to do since we arrived in Korea.  We went on a tour through the USO (the United Services Organization). The border between North and South Korea is the heaviest guarded border between any two countries.  Perhaps the most startling thing about the tour was realizing how close the DMZ is to the second largest metropolitan area in the world. It took us a mere 45 minutes to get to the border from downtown Seoul.  

Standing beside a South Korean soldier in the Military Armistice Commission building.  This is where joint meetings have been held for the observation of the armistice signed between North and South Korea.  We are currently in "North Korea" at this moment hence why we weren't quite sure if smiling was an appropriate reaction.  

One particularly interesting thing you see when you look over the border is what the South Korean's call Propaganda village.  Until 2004, this "fake" village blared North Korean propaganda from huge loudspeakers.  Now all it boasts is the world's highest flag tower which stands 525 feet tall and flies a 600 lb North Korean flag.  Apparently when the nearby South Korean village of Daeseong raised a South Korean flag, the North Koreans had to one-up them. 

During their second week here they were finally over the jetlag and feeling good.  We hiked, ate some pretty unusual sushi dishes including raw whale (which Aaron and I had vowed not to eat after seeing The Cove documentary), drank tea, norebanged (Korean karaoke), and toured Busan with my co-teacher.  It really was fantastic having them here. 

Drinking tea in Sanseong mountain village.

Hiking up Geumjeong Mountain.

On a coastline cruise with my co-teacher Ms. Park.

And remember that tea table my principal offered them on the first day?  On the last day my principal gave them a table, tea, and a beautiful traditional tea set.  My mom got tears in her eyes after experiencing the incredibly generosity of my principal and the others she met here in Korea.  Of all the things I will take away from my time in Korea, it is the incredible generosity of the people here.  I'm thrilled my parents were able to experience it first hand as well. 

Cabbage Crisis!

I never thought I would be so affected by a cabbage shortage!!  But to my dismay, there is a cabbage crisis sweeping the nation of South Korea.  It has even become international news!  You can read the NPR article here.  As a result, we do not have cabbage kimchi at school lunch nor do we get free refills of kimchi at restaurants.  To me, this is as unKorean as it gets.  Now you may sense a bit of a sarcasm in my typing and yes, I do have some towards the subject.  But for many Koreans this is a serious thing.  It is part of their livelihood and what defines them as a culture.  Some even believe it cures many things.  I suppose you could compare it to a lettuce or potato shortage in America...but not even because in America we don't eat lettuce for literally breakfast, lunch, AND dinner or think that they can cure/prevent diseases. 


I know this may be a stretch, but all sarcasm aside, this kind of event makes me think about how more of this kind of stuff could happen in the future. Not only food shortages, but natural resource shortages due to our changing climate and overuse/abuse.  Maybe not in our near future, but certainly in our future.  I suppose it goes to show we should never take anything (not even a red chili paste and fish oil covered piece of fermented cabbage) for granted.